Living and Learning in Italy

One of Canada’s finest traditions, which is also carried out annually at CCI, is the honouring of our war dead every November 11. It is a somber, sacred duty that reminds all of us, especially our students, of the sacrifices made by young men and women on behalf of others. Today, we no longer just honour those who fell in two world wars, we pay tribute to new generations of war dead and veterans of conflicts like those currently in Afghanistan.

Located as we are in Lanciano, we are in the heart of the WWII Italian Campaign area. In nearby Ortona, the Allied Forces fought a particularly gruesome battle with the Germans that became known as “Little Stalingrad”. Some 1375 Canadian soldiers died in fierce house to house fighting during eight days during the Christmas period of 1943.

Two beforehand, we screened the film 1943 Bloody Christmas – The Battle for Ortona. One can see the trailer and a further link to the entire film at the following YouTube site: 1943 Ortona bloody christmas site: youtube.com. This gave the students an overview of the battle itself.

Then the day before, we took the students to Ortona. There we visited a museum which contains dozens or WWI artifacts. Tomas, a long time resident of Ortona, pictured below gave us a very personal and moving talk using a details model of wartime Ortona about what it was like to be a little boy in Ortona during the war and in particular, during the battle itself.

It’s often the simple gestures that are so meaningful. Tomas told us as his eyes welled with tears that the reason that the citizens of Ortona are so grateful to the Canadians is that the Italian citizens were literally starving during the German occupation and that once the Canadians had driven the Germans out of Ortona, their first action was to feed the Italians. Time and again, he told us that the Canadians saved them.

A landmark of many Italian towns is the cathedral or basilica. In Ortona, the Cathedral San Tomasso was nearly destroyed as depicted in the photo of the model below.

What is noteworthy of this church is that it houses the bones of St. Thomas, the disciple of Jesus, who doubted that Jesus had risen from the dead and would only be convinced by touching Jesus’ wounds. He was interred in Otona in AD 1258.

The photos below show the restored basilica as it is today.

As we walked through Ortona, evidence of the war as well as the street to street and house to house fighting remains in evidence, grim reminders to today’s generation.

“The Price of Peace” is the statue that forever honours the efforts and sacrifices made by Canadian soldiers in this campaign. It depicts one soldier bending over another lending his fallen comrade assistance.

The bronze was commissioned by Canada and given to Robert Surette of Ottawa. It depicts a soldier trying to assist a fallen comrade, but who finally turns his face away when he realizes that his comrade is dead. The face of both soldiers is the same and is that of Surette, the artist.

The Remembrance Day Ceremony itself was for many of us made especially poignant as we were remembering and honouring the soldiers who were buried all around us.

As has been our practice, Mrs. D’Alessandro planned, organized and led the service. All of us were so pleased by the presence of the Canadian military, Canadian and Italian veterans and politicians, and especially by the Canadian Ambassador to Italy, Mr. James Fox.

CCI students and faculty members participated in all aspects of the ceremony including giving readings, leading the singing of the Canadian and Italian national anthems, singing two hymns – “Amazing Grace” and “Abide with Me” – and laying a wreath on behalf of all Canadian young people.

We had the good fortune of having a Canadian WWII veteran, Mr. Ron Palmer and his wife, Sandra in attendance. Mr. Fox asked him to assist him in laying a wreath on behalf of Canada.

Following the service and a lunch at The Allegria, Mr. Fox, accompanied by Col. Dennis, Canada’s Military Attaché to Italy, came to the school to speak to our students. Ambassador Fox impressed the students immediately when he first canvassed them for their country of origin and then spoke directly to them in their native language. He responded to the students questions candidly when speaking about his career and some of his experiences in the over 150 countries that he has visited in his official capacity. Mr. Fox shed light on his career and more broadly speaking, about careers in the public service that he encouraged the students to consider. It was clear to everyone that Ambassador Fox characterized such a career is varied, evolving and rewarding.

In response to a question about Canada’s foreign policy and in particular, Canada’s role in Afghanistan, Col. Dennis was asked to provide his perspective. What distinguished his response was the fact that he served in Afghanistan which gave his comments considerable weight and immediacy.

Our students were so captivated by him, that they wanted him to extend his visit but his schedule demanded his return to Rome. However, he invited CCI students to visit him in the embassy in Rome, which is an offer that we plan to accept in the Second Semester.

It would be fair to say that this year, Remembrance Day was memorable for all of us for so many reason.

November 1, 2010

The last week of October was devoted to welcoming the parents and families of our students to CCI and Lanciano. Although there were only three days of official events, many took advantage of the opportunity to extend their stay to a week in the area of Lanciano or further a field to encompass more of Italy. It was a delight to have so many families with us so that they could experience for themselves what their children have been experiencing since August.

Wednesday evening was marked by a Welcome Dinner at the Allegria and the place was packed!

On Thursday, our parents and families took an escorted tour to San Vito and Ortona.

The first stop was in San Vito San to see a trobocchi, which is a fishing platform first devised by the Turks in the 17^th Century. Due to the high winds and waves they were not able to actually go onto the platform itself.

At Ortona, Mr. Joe Murray, one of our teachers and a person who is very knowledgeable about Canada’s war efforts during WWII here in Italy especially, showed them exactly where Canadian and German troops were fighting in this town.

The tour included a visit to the war museum cared for by Tomas (pictured below) who was a boy at the time living with his family in Ortona. Their home, along with many others, was destroyed in the fighting and because of the fighting, he along with the many residents of Ortona were virtually starving. The Canadians liberated Ortona and fought the Germans back in battles that were estimated to have a 10% survival rate for both sides; that is, only one in ten survived the fighting there. In gratitude to the Canadians, Tomas committed to the upkeep of the museum.

Afterwards, the group went outside to see the statue dedicated to the Canadian troops entitled ‘The Price of Peace’ and lovingly cared for everyday by Francesca, also a long time resident of Ortona and a war survivor. Her gratitude is demonstrated by her weekly placement of flowers on the monument.

The group was also introduced to another Tomas, who was cook for the Canadian troops in WWII. Like his fellow citizens, he honours Canada and the sacrificial role its troops played in the liberation of his town. Meeting these three people was an emotional part of the day for everyone.

Thankfully, there was a bit of a break as everyone was able to enjoy some lunch in the local restaurants.

The early afternoon included a visit to the Moro River Cemetery. It is here that 1,375 Canadians who fought in this campaign are buried. During the eight days from December 20-28^th 1943 approximately one quarter of the Canadians killed in Italy were slain then. There is also war dead from other Commonwealth countries buried there. What is so striking is their relative youthfulness when they died. The youngest soldier laid to rest here was 16 years old at the time of his death.

One story that brought it all home to everyone is that of Corporal Ash who was killed on October 20, 1943 at the age of 22. He had recently married before leaving for the war. Then, some sixty-seven years later and week before CCI’s visit, his wife who had remarried, returned to pay her respects to her late husband on the day he died so long ago. Bringing with her red maple leaves, hand prints of her great-grandchildren’s and their wedding photo, she left them at his grave along with a card that bares the inscription, “Have I told you lately that I love you?”

On returning to CCI, parents were treated to an adaptation of a Greek play performed by Mrs. Irons Murray’s Classic Civilization students. Entitled ‘Thesmophoria’, Arsitophenes explores the stereotypical roles of women and men. Following the play, a group of students and teachers performed two songs, one of which was performed earlier in L’Aquila.